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  • Elisa Torres

It's My Surf. It's My Life.

Panic. Fear. Tight chest. My nightmare is coming true.

Peace. Ease. Breath. I am in control.

Same situation. Same timing. Perspective.

Five-day Maui Surf Retreat. A lifetime of lessons learned. Facing the rock wall straight ahead of me, I tensed up, stared at the wall, and drove my board straight toward it. I had no control. I had no time to course correct. This is impossible.

My coach, Bully, sows seeds of possibility. You can choose fear. You can choose freedom. Look where you want to go and that’s where you will go.

Look up.

Suddenly, the ride was infinite. Breath. Breath. It gives you time. It relaxes your mind and body so you can focus. So you can enjoy the ride. Shifting my balance, adjusting my feet, navigating around any obstacles. Breath. Breath was the key.

I finally got it. I avoided the rock wall. It didn’t exist to me. I chose freedom. Again and again as I rode into the sun. I have time. Life isn’t happening to me. I don’t need to operate on anyone’s agenda, schedule, or expectations for my surf or my life.

I have time.



P.S. My favorite thing about travel is the way it clears my mind so I can hear from God through nature. What are some lessons you've learned in your travels?


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